Friday, July 17, 2009
Vacation Part 1: London
After a good 10 hours sleep, we woke up feeling refreshed and ready to conquer London. Our first full day was split fairly evenly between the British Museum (a "must-see" by any standards) and shopping along Regency Street (which Dave was a great sport about). We started up at Oxford Circus and made our way down Regency to Piccadilly Circus. Of course, my first stop was Liberty:
Next up was Bath: a charming Georgian town in southwest England, not far from Wales. Built along the river Avon, the city itself is charming and would be an excellent destination for a long-weekend. Bath has long been a destination for wealthy Londoners looking to escape the city in the summer and it is where Jane Austen wrote many of her famous novels. Today, celebrities like Johnny Depp continue to retreat to the charming town.
Of course, the major tourist attraction to Bath (and the source of its name) are the Roman Baths, which is one of the best-preserved examples of their kind remaining in the world. As a Classics major in college, I have a particular interest in all things Roman, but I think they're of sufficient general interest to be worthy of a place on just about everyone's hit list.
On Sunday we decided to sleep in, but we still managed to spend the entire afternoon at one of my all-time favorite stops: The Tower of London. Between the engaging Beefeater tour guides, the Crown jewels (housed in the building above), the ravens, and just the incredible amount of important events (i.e., executions) that have gone on here, it's just a wonderful way to spend a day -- particularly one as glorious as we enjoyed that Sunday.
The White Tower is the oldest part of the Tower, dating back to William the Conqueror. Inside was a special exhibit on Henry VIII, whose coronation was in 1509, exactly 500 years ago this year. Anne Boleyn, Henry's second wife, was executed "in the French fashion" (i.e., by a sword instead of an axe) just steps away from where I took the picture.
Sunday evening we dined in Hyde Park and then walking from the park up to Buckingham Palace, which is just a 15 minute walk away in Green Park. Since the Queen was enjoying her holiday in Scotland while we were there, the flag flown above the palace is the Union Jack (when the Queen is in resident, her royal standard is flown instead).
The monument to Queen Victoria just opposite the Palace. I'm a huge fan of Queen V. and the size, scale and artistic merit of this monument makes it truly breathtaking in person.
On Monday we decided to spend our day in the city of Westminster. Our first stop was Parliament and Big Ben for a quick photo or two. Then we were off to Westminster Abbey, which rivals (and arguably surpasses) the Tower of London for its history and cultural importance.
This was my fourth time to visit Westminster and every time I see something different and learn something new. Just about all the great men and women of English history are buried here, from Edward the Confessor and Elizabeth I to Isaac Newton and Geoffrey Chaucer. In fact, there are so many people buried here that it takes great care to not constantly stumble over graves. I would imagine that worshipping here would feel rather like communing with the dead, many of whom are memorialized with lifelike statutes and portraits, which only heightens the sensation that you're sharing this space with another world.
This brief prayer is outside the exit to the Abbey, and has been a favorite of my family's since my first trip to London in 1996.We then pressed on to St. Paul's Cathedral, which is an absolute architectural marvel. This is a shot from the very top of the Cathedral, which Dave took as I declined to take the last 300 or so steps from the Whispering Gallery to the top (the narrow, steep steps are a bit claustrophobic and I'd made the trek before). Our final stop that day was the Museum of London, a hidden gem among the more popular museums in the city. I highly recommend it as a great rainy day activity that won't be overly crowded.
Alas, we awoke on our last day in London to steady rain, which forced us to cancel our plans to visit Hampton Court (an impressive Tudor-era palace just outside London). Instead, we decided to visit the Victoria and Albert Museum, which is dedicated to the decorative arts and includes just about everything from priceless blanc de Chine and Victorian silver serveware to exhibits on hats and fashion.
This picture of the pagoda-style bed is for my friend Beth of Chinoiserie Chic. Its size and detailing in person was magnificent and was the highlight of an impressive collection of 17th and 18th century Chinoiserie furniture and art.
Dave will kill me for posting this picture (its admittedly not particularly flattering of him), but there are precious few pictures of us together, particularly in London. Our final stop on our last day was Trafalgar Square, where a chilly rain drove us indoors to the National Portrait Gallery, which has an amazing collection of...you guessed it -- portraits, but its collection of Tudor portraits is my favorite.
Our final night in London was spent dining at the Boxwood Cafe, a restaurant operated by the celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey and attached to the famed Berkeley Hotel. After a delicious meal, we retreated to The Berkeley's Blue Bar (pictured above) which was suggested to us by Beth and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. All in all, it was an excellent finish to a wonderful stay in London.
I'd also like to thank both Beth and Christy (from A Lil' Welsh Rarebit) on their excellent suggestions on what Dave and I should do, see and eat while in London. Your suggestions were spot-on and greatly appreciated, ladies!
Next up is Part 2: Ireland!
22 comments:
Wow! It looks like you had an amazing time! I can't wait to read about Ireland!
Such fabulous pic's! You & Dave looked like two very happy travelers. I am so jealous you got to visit the Boxwood Cafe. I have a humongous crush on "potty mouth" Gordon Ramsay. The Blue Bar's interior is lovely. The chandelier @ the Victoria & Albert rotunda looks like Seattle's Dale Chihuly? In fact just googled & found out it is! Now if I travel to Bath I will be scouring for Mr. Depp;I wish! Cannot wait for Ireland. Happy weekend to you both Averill,
Deb
Wow - what a fabulous vacation recap. Sounds like you guys had a total blast. I have a picture of us in the exact same spot with the bridge in the background - it's one of my all time favorites. I'll have to post it so you can see how similar they are!
Can't wait to hear about Ireland - and I'm so glad you enjoyed yourselves. Also - LOVE the red hair you're sporting - so stylish and pretty!
My mother was born and raised in England (and always retained her British citizenship) and my father was raised in England (born in Texas, though!), so I truly feel like I am home when I am in England. I try to go at least every other year, since I still have family there.
It looks like you had a wonderful time! You covered a lot of ground. On your next visit, the Tate and the Tate Modern are wonderful. I also LOVE Blenheim Palace, which is in Oxfordshire and is one of the most beautiful palaces/stately homes I have ever seen.
Good call to scrap Hampton Court; I was there in the rain several years ago, and it is so much better to visit during decent weather, or at the very least, when it is not raining.
Oh, how I miss London...this is my 'off year'. I am trying to figure out when I will make it there next year. I have resolved that when all of my kids are in camp for a month (which won't be for a few years), I am going to spend the entire time in Paris and London.
TTI - I visited Blenheim on my last visit to London back in 2001 and I loved it! You're absolutely right that it's not to be missed.
I've been to the Tate Modern, too, and thoroughly enjoyed myself, but my husband absolutely HATES modern art, so for the sake of my sanity, I elected not to drag him through it.
What a breathtaking tour of the London area!! Your pictures and descriptions are magnificent and make me want to visit tomorrow. :) That glass chandelier at the Victoria & Albert - is it Dave Chihuly?
I love the re-cap, Averill! These places make me want to pack my bags and visit :) You two look very cute traveling, and look like you're having a blast! Just like Deb, I thought the chandelier @ the Victoria & Albert rotunda looked like Seattle's Dale Chihuly. His work is incredible...and oh my, The Boxwood Cafe looks so chic!
Looks like you guys had an amazing time on your trip. The glass sculpture hanging from the ceiling looks like it is done by Chihuly. He's a famous glass sculptor. Can't wait to see your pictures form Ireland!
Glorious!!! Bravo to Dave as well for putting up with all the shopping as well. I was surprised no Tate but I see in your comment why. The glass sculpture was magnificent!! I'm wondering if its a Dale Chihuly piece. Love his work.
I can't wait for part two of this lovely respite. By the way Dave looks great in the photos as do you.
You ladies all are spot-on! It is indeed a Chihuly -- check out the V&A's microsite on the Chihuly exhibition (which is no longer there, though that amazing piece in the entrance is) at the V&A where you can download desktop wallpapers and e-cards featuring his work:
http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/chihuly/
What a lovely trip Averill! You make me miss it. Glad you squeezed in the new State Apartments - they are really worth it (such a wonderful art collection!). The fire was a tragedy, but the new design is lovely.
Averill-What a great trip. Glad you enjoyed the Blue Bar. Love the Pagoda Bed of course.
I am jealous. Great photos - can't wait to see some more.
I am very jealous reading this lovely post! I must do a trip to Europe... So much amazing history and beauty
Thanks for sharing! I love that elongated chandelier....amazing!!! Looking forward to part deux!
Looks like a wonderful trip. You even got a little sunshine while in London - amazing.
The chandelier is my favorite!
xo,
cristin
Oh you lucky girl!
m ^..^
How wonderful!!!! I am glad you are having a great trip!
You two look so cute. you sure conquered London Alright, but hey! what about Madame Tussauds and the London dungeon? well, i hope you'll visit there the next time you travel to London. you know, after all, it is a city to visit twice :)
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This post is so great. I can see that you are really having fun in your vacation in London. I can't wait to read the other part of your whole vacation day. I will wait for that.
London is the best place to visit. There are many different place in London that have importance in both point of view respectively in natural beauty & historically also
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